# How do I properly train a cockatiel?



## cheche224 (Sep 26, 2010)

My cockatiel, Loki, is 4 months old and I want to train and bond with him but am unsure of how to approach this properly. Is there a secret when training or bonding with cockatiels?

My cockatiel is a friendly bird but when he gets onto my shoulder or any high surface, he tries to bite me! Is this a dominance thing? how do I get him to stop doing that!

How do birds show affection? I want my bird to know I love him and I want to be kind to him, so he will be kind to me. I don't think he is a very affectionate bird and I'm not sure why.

I am new to bird owning. If anyone can give me tips or secrets, that would be great! Thanks so much


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## Cockatiel love (Aug 15, 2010)

*Trick training*

1. emotion= if the bird sees your emotion they pick up signals on what to do. If you do a sad facial expression for a trick the bird will know that if you do that expression you mean you want the bird to do that trick. Expressing anger in facial expressions is a great way to get across your emoticons without harming the bird but showing it that you mean buisness. Happy is praise for a bird and this can be substituted instead of treats and birds tend to repeat a trick more if you do big and bold (over the top) facial expressions.

2. Repeating= repeating the trick is a very important step as birds tend to forget easily and just teaching a bird a trick once is not going to get it in the birds head very well. Talking involves a lot of repeating as the bird needs to learn the mouth movements and positions as well as the vocal side of things. It is the same basic fondation as tricks as you have to reapeat the movement of the trick and you have to repeat the facial expression. A bird that has a trick repeated to it lots will be a easier bird to teach and a quicker one as they will know the command off by heart to repeat it without your help. 

3. Praise= Praise is the most important. A bird that does a trick for nothing will not be intrested in doing it again as it knows it does not get anything however if a bird does a trick and gets praised for it, it seems to respond again to get more praise and this helps you start the training process. Praise must only be given if the bird does the trick correctly with only some bounds of flexibility. If the bird does not do it how you want it to, do not praise it as it gets a treat for nothing. Praise can be in the form of treats, facial expression or playing a game with a toy. Most birds respond more to treats such as: millet, seeds, honey sticks and biscuits (for birds) rather than facial expression or games. Charlie responds to games more than treats and never really responds to facial expressions. 

After doing these things your bird is ready to be taught a trick, only till you understand the proper ways to teach a bird will it be likely your bird does anything.

*Bonding*

It is best to seperate the cockatiels (at least in the beginning, while you are bonding with them) if you want them to be really tame with people. 

It is true that they might never learn the joys of a good head scratch, since they are being worked with later in life- but I've tamed 16 year old cockatiels before (who were kept as a pair even!). It just takes time and a loving, understanding person who will work with the bird. 

Feeding the birds by hand, and having "bonding" sessions in a quiet room away from the other bird and his/her cage. Here are some other tips for taming birds:

First Taming Method:

Talk with the bird everyday, and feed the bird favorite treats through the bars of the cage. (If your bird is on a pellet diet; seeds usually work as the best treats, but if your bird is on a seed diet... try to figure out what type of seed is your bird's favorite, you can tell this when you put a fresh dish of seed in their cage, they will pick out their favorite seed -for most birds this is sunflower seeds-, or try dried fruit, fresh fruit/veggies, ect...). Many times birds will not accept treats through the cage bars for quite some time¡K this is ok! Just continue to talk to the bird in a non-threatening manner and spend time close to the bird¡¦s cage. Do this each day, 2 to 4 times a day. Then, after awhile, the bird will actually look forward to this interaction and companionship you offer!  This method doesn't usually work for birds that are housed with other bird(s), because they already have all the companionship they want (usually) with the other bird. The goal of this taming is to get the bird to actually WANT your attention and companionship! And this leads to a very trusting, healthy relationship if approached gently and lovingly!  This works, because in the wild, birds feed each other to reinforce/gain friendship, love and to create/reinforce their bond. Then, once you know your bird looks forward to those treats and your attention, open their cage door, and leave it open during your "interaction"-sessions. This will allow an adventure-some bird to get closer. Slowly, "draw" your bird out of the cage, by not giving them a treat, UNLESS they make baby-steps out of the cage, moving the treat further out of the cage, each day. Then eventually, they will enjoy and look forward to coming out of their cage to play and interact... start putting your treat in the palm of your hand then, so they have to short of "crawl" into your hand to get the treat, usually they don't even have to touch your hand, but it gets them closer to it... then eventually you can start offering your hand at the edge of the cage, so they need to step onto your hand, or something to get the treat. You could either offer the treat in your palm, or offer your finger for them to step up onto, and then offer the treat in the other hand. This method takes time, but is oh so worth it! And I highly recommend this method!  Then, eventually, they will learn to step up onto your hand once out side of the cage, and then you can work on them laddering on your hand, and teach them the "step-up" command, and once they learn the step-up command, it is usually fairly easy to get them to step up onto your hand and come out of the cage on your hand. Instead of using treats, you can also adjust this method to encourage your bird to come out of the cage on his/her own. Just leave the cage door while you talk to your bird. You can move a chair right next/near the cage, and read a book. Occasionally, read parts of the book out loud in a soft, sweet voice to your bird. Eventually (because birds are so curious and social) you bird will come out of his/her cage and try to investigate this book of yours. (And you!). Some birds will only take a day or two to start coming out of their cage, others will take weeks! So, DON'T GIVE UP! This is by far the best form of taming a bird, because your bond will be so close and trusting. And I highly recommend it! Good luck with forming and creating that tight, close bond between you and your birdie!

Second Taming Method:

Catch the bird in their cage, using a towel (or if it is a smaller bird, and you don't mind getting bit by them, you can just use your bare hands, but using your bare hands, can make some birds more fearful of hands)... then take the bird to a "strange" room where they can't see their cage. (Untamed birds will usually try to get back to anything that is of comfort, like their cage, or other birds)... but by putting an untamed bird in an unfamiliar room, all of a sudden, you become the most familiar thing to them, so they are much more likely to stick close to you and listen to what you say. (This still won't happen overnight, but believe me... it helps in the long run!). From there, for the first couple/few days it will be a struggle to get the bird to stay on your hand, but slowly but surely, with you as their teacher, they will learn how to "step-up", and do laddering. With bigger birds, that may bite, using a hand-held perch and a T-Stand usually works better than your hands while teaching them the "step-up" command. Then, after they learn to step-up well, it should be fairly easy to get them to step-up onto your hand, to come out of the cage on your hand. Remember, that when the bird flies off your hand, or the T-Perch, always offer your hand, and the "step-up" command, if they don't listen, push into their tummies, until they step up... but if they still won't step up, towel them if they are a big bird, or "scoop" them up if they are a smaller bird. But, as a note: using a towel should be done with great care, you don't want to scare the bird or hurt the bird in any way, shape or form! If you hurt your bird while toweling them, I can assure you that you will lose their trust, and a bond without trust is usually one built of fear, which isn't good at all! And makes for a very unhealthy relationship! 



Final Thought:

No Matter which method you use, both will take time, and it doesn't happen overnight... remember to give lots of treats when their good, lots of verbal praise... constantly speak quietly and gently to them, and don't get too emotional when they bite and don't get too frustrated! Have patience!!! When they do bite, simply say "No" and try again... don't give into them!  They will push your buttons, because when first taming them down, they are actually usually very fearful, and don't realize how fun people and out-of-cage time can be, so let them take the time they need, but don't give up!!!

Sorry it is long read these links for more:

http://en.allexperts.com/q/Birds-General-2349/cockatiel-bonding.htm

http://www.comeflywithcharlie.webs.com/


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## kellie (Sep 21, 2010)

Thats really intesresting reading  and very useful.
I have been putting in my hand into the cage with either no treats or some millet, he tolerates my hand in his cage and sometimes steps ontp my hand and sometiems eats the treats form my hand. 
I do this approx 3-4 times a day for 10/15minutes. I also sit near the cage (its in my lounge room) and I will talk to him lots while I sit and relax or on the internet - he always watches very clsely and chirps back.

I was going to start introducing a command every time he steps onto my hand, possibly using a clicker next. But I read where you put about leaving the cage door open while your hand is in, at the moment I put my hand in through one of the smaller doors as I am worried he will just fly and fly around my lounge and rest on my curtain pole. Should I just let him do this?? or will it affect the training??

Kellie


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## Cockatiel love (Aug 15, 2010)

It will not effect training if he is a easy going cockatiel however it is good to get a low down perch so he becomes comfortable on that instead of a high perch because high perches are harder to tame a cockatiel on and they are hard to get the bird down in some cases  

Flying around the room is great excercise for the bird and helps improve the wing and chest muscels it uses to fly, everytime the bird flaps the muscels tense and this creates the bird to develop strong muscels if it had used them a lot.
There are several hazards when letting a bird out though:


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## Cockatiel love (Aug 15, 2010)

Windows, doors, and skylights 

Just like wild birds, our pet birds do not understand glass, and will try to fly right through it.

Clip his wings: One precaution you can take is to keep your bird's wings clipped. This will not necessarily prevent him from flying, but it will slow down his speed. Using a flight suit with a lanyard could also be helpful.

Use drapes, blinds, or shades to cover your windows when your bird is loose. Some people have installed decals on their windows, similar to those used to deter wild birds.

Make sure your screens are strong and installed securely. Check them regularly for any holes or loose wire that could injure your bird.

Curtains and drapery can pose hazards if toenails become caught in the fabric or the bird becomes entangled in the cord. Keep your bird's nails clipped to the appropriate length.

Fans and temperature extremes 

Extreme heat and cold can be dangerous for your bird. Both ceiling and regular fans can pose a danger to your bird.

Avoid placing your bird's cage or play station in any drafty area; keep him well away from fans, open windows, and heat registers. Also, do not place him in a cold room, or area that may be in full sun with no shade.

Turn all fans, including ceiling fans, off when your bird is out of his cage, even if his wings are clipped.

Suffocation or crushing 

Many birds like to hide under things, or find a small "hole" in which they can nest. With their small size, they can easily go unnoticed and be trapped or injured by moving parts.

Always look where you walk. Many birds have been injured or even killed from being stepped on.

When you close a door or cupboard, make sure your bird is not sitting on top of it or on his way through the opening.

Do not allow your bird in rooms where computer printers, electrical tools, vacuum cleaners, or other mechanical devices with moving parts are being used.

Use caution when using fold-out beds or recliners, since birds may get underneath them and into the mechanism.

Before moving or laying anything on the bed covers, laundry basket, or other areas where there are multiple layers of fabric, be sure your bird has not gotten between the layers.

Do not sleep with your bird. You could easily move and crush him.

Cover all air ducts to prevent a bird from exploring and becoming lost in the maze.

Electrical and other cords 

Electrical cords are a very serious threat to a bird. Chewing through a cord could cause severe burns, or even electrocution. There are other cords that can be chewed, including phone, computer, stereo, cable TV, and appliance cords.

To reduce the risk of injury, use one or more of the following:

Spiral cable wrap. This is a flexible plastic sheath that can be wound around the cords. CAUTION: Some birds may still try to chew through this. Monitor your bird closely, and if he chews on this, try one of the other two alternatives.

Cord concealers. These are hard plastic, come in various colors and sizes, and are usually applied to the area above the baseboards.

PVC pipe or polyethylene hard tubing. A slit can be cut through the pipe or tubing, and the cords slipped inside. Tubing that is already split is also available.

Child – bird interactions 

A bird could be hurt, or hurt a child if she is improperly handled.

Take into account the age of children, their maturity, and experience with handling birds and other pets when deciding if they may be left alone with a bird. Also, take into account the temperament of the bird.

Establish household rules regarding the handling of the bird, including who may feed her, and what supervision is necessary.

Show children the correct way to play with a bird and praise them when they do it properly.

Always have a safe area where your bird can retreat.

Interactions with other pets 

Extreme care should be taken when introducing your bird to other pets, including other birds. It is natural instinct for wild canines and felines to prey on birds. Sometimes the reverse is true, and a large bird can actually be more aggressive. Animal bites can cause severe injuries and be fatal. If your bird is bitten, always seek veterinary attention.

Never leave a loose bird unattended in a room with another pet, even if they appear to get along well together. It is always better to be safe than sorry.

Place bird cages where they cannot be tipped over by inquisitive or predatory behaviors of other pets.

Cover all aquariums to prevent your bird from accidental drowning, ingestion of lead weights used on some plants, and drinking the water that may contain infectious organisms or chemicals used to treat the water.

Prevent birds from having access to corncob or hay bedding used for small pets. These may contain molds or cause digestive problems.

Keep cat litter boxes out of the reach of birds. The dust and scent may cause respiratory problems, and ingestion could result in obstructions of the digestive tract.

Keep water dishes out of the reach of birds, since birds can drown in even a small amount of water.

Prevent access to areas where heat lamps are used, such as housing for reptiles. These can cause burns and the covers may give off toxic fumes if coated with polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE).

Keep all flea and tick sprays and pet medications and supplements – especially those that are flavored – out of the reach of birds.

Kitchen hazards 

The kitchen contains an almost endless number of hazards, including:

Burns from hot burners, open ovens, toasters, coffee pots, tea kettles, boiling water, or hot cooking oil.

Toxic fumes from teflon or other non-stick cookware and appliances including pots, waffle irons, slow-cookers, and drip pans. Fumes may contain PTFE and be very toxic. Fumes from self-cleaning ovens and oven cleaners are also toxic, as well as those from cleaning supplies.

Drowning in a sink or even a glass or small bowl of water.

Injuries or entrapment in open appliances, such as dishwashers, freezers, and refrigerators.

Cuts from sharp, shiny objects, such as knives.

Grease, butter, margarine, and oils that can get on the feathers.

Toxic foods including chocolate (bakers, semi sweet, milk, dark), alcohol, avocado, garlic, onion, salt, yeast dough, and coffee (grounds, beans, chocolate espresso beans), tea, colas, and other caffeinated beverages.

Smoke fumes from overheated foods or oils.

The kitchen should always be off limits to birds.

Bathroom hazards 

Bathrooms can be almost as hazardous as kitchens, and extreme care should be taken if a bird is allowed in this room of the house.

Prevent access to water in sinks, bathtubs, toilet bowls, and jacuzzis, since drowning could easily occur.

Place decals on large mirrors to prevent your bird from flying into them.

Do not use a curling iron in the presence of a bird, since the iron may give off PTFE fumes.

Keep all medications, including vitamins and supplements, out of the reach of children and pets.

Keep other potentially poisonous items, such as shaving cream and lotion, aerosol hairsprays, hair dyes and permanent solutions, and cleaning supplies, including toilet bowl cleaner safely stored.

Laundry room hazards 

The laundry room is another area of the house that poses multiple threats to birds.

Use care when placing or removing laundry from baskets – your bird may have found the basket to be a good sleeping place.

Keep the doors to the washer and dryer closed, and watch very closely as you load and unload the laundry. Birds have accidentally been trapped and killed in these appliances.

Do not use hot irons in the presence of birds due to the danger of burns and PTFE fumes. Spray starch is also toxic.

Keep detergents, fabric softener sheets, liquid softeners, fabric dyes, bleach, and other potentially toxic laundry supplies safely stored out of the reach of children and pets.

Heat sources 

Burns are a common injury in pet birds and can occur from a number of sources other than kitchen appliances.

Never allow your bird in a room where there is an open flame from candles, fondue pots, heated potpourri pots, or other sources.

Keep your bird caged when using a space heater or fireplace. Even if glass fireplace doors would prevent access to the fire, the doors themselves can be very hot. Also, always keep the damper and doors to the fireplace closed when it is not in use.

Radiators can also pose a risk of burns.

Light bulbs, especially halogen ones, can become quite hot, and remain hot even after being turned off. Be sure they are cool before allowing your bird access.

Keep matches out of the reach of birds – they can be toxic.

Smoke and fumes 

A bird's respiratory tract is very different from that of a mammal's, and actually concentrates any smoke or fumes in the air, making them markedly more toxic. Basically, by the time an odor is strong enough for you to smell it (or even before that), the chemical could be damaging your bird's respiratory tract. The following should all be considered dangerous around birds:

Smoke from any source is hazardous. Secondhand smoke from cigars and cigarettes can cause chronic eye, skin, and respiratory disease. Install smoke and carbon monoxide alarms. Tobacco is also toxic, so remove any whole or smoked cigars or cigarettes before allowing your bird access to a room.

Marijuana, which can cause depression and regurgitation.

Gasoline, kerosene, lighter fluid, and other petroleum products.

Paint, wood stains and preservatives, mineral spirits, turpentine, paint remover, paint thinner, and other solvents.

Cleaning supplies and disinfectants including bleach, phenols, ammonia, pine oil, spot remover, window cleaning solution, floor and furnisher polish.


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## Cockatiel love (Aug 15, 2010)

Heavy metals 

Poisonous heavy metals include zinc, lead, and arsenic, which are surprisingly common in a household and may actually be incorporated in items made for birds.

Zinc is present in galvanized metal, such as nails and staples; solder (including that used in some bird cages); padlocks; zippers, snaps, and costume jewelry; the clasps and chains on some bird toys; pennies made since 1982; paint (especially anti-rust paint); zinc oxide skin preparations, such as Desitin and sunblock containing zinc oxide; calamine lotion; suppositories; shampoos; zinc undecylenate (Desenex); and fertilizers.

Lead is present in lead-containing paint, linoleum, tile, batteries, plumbing materials, putty, lead foil, solder, golf balls, some roof coverings, lubricants, the backing on mirrors, wine bottle cork foils, rug pads, acid (soft) drinking water from lead pipes or improperly glazed ceramic water bowls, lead weights, fishing sinkers, drapery weights, newsprint, dyes, insulation, lead-containing burnt lubricant oil, stained glass objects, and lead shot.

Arsenic is a highly poisonous metal used in insecticides, pesticides, rodenticides, weed killers, wood preservatives, some insulation, and some alloys.

To protect your bird:

Keep items containing these metals out of the reach of birds.

Regularly check your bird cage and toys for any loose solder or pieces of metal that are loose.

Choose non-heavy metal alternatives to the above items, if possible.

Other toxins or hazards 

In addition to those mentioned, there are many other potential toxins that are found in and around many homes. Since birds can absorb chemicals through their feet, always wash your hands well after having contact with any possible poison. Protect your bird from: Jewelry, button batteries, coins, fishing tackle, pins, and other small metallic items, which are very attractive to birds, but can cause mouth injuries, damage or obstruction of the digestive tract, or toxicity.

Guns and associated supplies such as cleaner, powder, and ammunition.

Toxic houseplants.

Polishes including those for brass, silver, copper, floors, and shoes.

Other poisons, such as herbicides (weed killers), snail and slug bait, insecticides (flea and tick control products), pesticides (ant poison), and rodenticides (rat poison). Be careful with mouse traps, too.

Holiday hazards, such as Christmas decorations including tinsel, angel hair, tree flocking, and glass ornaments; Easter basket grass; and ribbons and ballons


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## kellie (Sep 21, 2010)

Thats all very good reading thank you very much.
My lounge is pretty much tiel proof which is good, and I checked all that on the list too.

With him now being comfortable with my hand I started using a clicker and command tonight, successfully thank goodness. His cage has also been open most of the evening, he has only ventured out once , had a flew around and sat on his open top perch, he had another fly around then I held out his stick perch and he came to me so I was able to transfer him back into his cage.

He has been beak grinding and chirping all evening so hopefully he is feeling happy tonight 

Kellie


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## Jynxstorm (May 15, 2010)

I do agree it is very good. I try different methods. With my tiel.


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